Bahamas (Exumas)

Swimming Pigs and Azure Shallows

$3,000/week

Overview

The Exuma Cays are a 120-mile chain of 365 islands stretching southeast from Nassau through some of the most impossibly turquoise water on earth. This is the Bahamas at its most pristine: sandbars that appear and vanish with the tides, underwater grottos teeming with tropical fish, uninhabited cays fringed by powder-white beaches, and the famous swimming pigs of Big Major Cay who paddle out to greet arriving boats. The shallow banks on either side of the chain glow in shifting shades of aquamarine, cerulean, and sapphire that must be seen to be believed. At the heart of the Exumas lies the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, the first marine protected area in the Caribbean. Established in 1958, the park covers 176 square miles and has allowed marine life to flourish without fishing pressure for over six decades. Nurse sharks rest in the shallows, spotted eagle rays glide over seagrass meadows, and enormous Nassau groupers patrol the coral heads. Warderick Wells, the park headquarters, features stunning hiking trails along rocky bluffs with panoramic views of the chain. Sailing the Exumas requires good chart reading and tidal awareness, as the waters between the cays are shallow with shifting sandbars. Most charters use catamarans for their shallow draft and spacious living areas. The reward is an uncrowded cruising ground where you can anchor in solitude at your own private beach, snorkel a reef with no one else in sight, and watch the Milky Way blaze overhead in skies free of light pollution. From the lively scene at Staniel Cay Yacht Club to the utter solitude of the southern cays, the Exumas offer a sailing experience unlike any other in the Caribbean.

Highlights

Swim with the famous Exuma pigs at Big Major Cay, where friendly swine paddle out to greet your dinghy
Snorkel through Thunderball Grotto near Staniel Cay, a sea cave made famous in two James Bond films
Explore the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, the Caribbean's first marine reserve with pristine reefs and wildlife
Walk the bluff trail at Warderick Wells for panoramic views over the turquoise chain of cays
Anchor over the shifting sandbars near Pipe Creek for swimming in water so clear the boat appears to float on air
Feed the friendly nurse sharks at Compass Cay Marina, where they gather in the shallows by the dock

Sample Itineraries

Exuma Cays: Nassau to Staniel and Back

7 days

Nassau to Allan's Cay

Depart from Nassau Harbour or Palm Cay Marina and sail 35 nautical miles southeast to Allan's Cay, the northern gateway to the Exuma chain. The passage crosses the deep Exuma Sound before entering the shallow turquoise banks. Allan's Cay is home to a colony of endangered Bahamian rock iguanas that sun themselves on the beach. Anchor in the protected western lee and enjoy your first Exuma sunset.

Allan's CayEndangered Bahamian rock iguanas on the beach

Allan's Cay to Warderick Wells

Continue south into the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. Pick up a mooring ball at Warderick Wells, the park headquarters. Hike the bluff trail on the north end for sweeping views of the cay chain. Explore Boo Boo Hill, where tradition holds that sailors leave driftwood carvings. The park's no-take policy means the snorkeling here is exceptional, with large fish and healthy coral gardens.

Warderick Wells, ECLSPBluff trail hike and Boo Boo Hill

Warderick Wells to Staniel Cay

Sail south to Staniel Cay, the social hub of the Exumas. Tie up at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club or anchor in the harbour. The main attraction is Thunderball Grotto, a sea cave just off the cay where shafts of sunlight pierce the water and illuminate schools of sergeant majors and angelfish. Swim in through the underwater entrance at slack tide for an unforgettable experience. End the day with a rum punch at the yacht club bar.

Staniel Cay HarbourSnorkeling through Thunderball Grotto

Staniel Cay to Big Major Cay

Make the short hop around the corner to Big Major Cay, home of the world-famous swimming pigs. Arrive early in the morning before tour boats for the best experience. The pigs wade into the shallows and swim out to dinghies, looking for treats. After the pig encounter, continue to nearby Bitter Guana Cay for pristine empty beaches, or visit Compass Cay to wade among nurse sharks at the marina dock.

Big Major CaySwimming with the famous Exuma pigs

Big Major Cay to Pipe Creek

Sail north to the Pipe Creek area between Compass Cay and Thomas Cay. This labyrinth of shallow channels, sandbars, and tiny cays is often called the most beautiful water in the Bahamas. The aquamarine shallows are so clear that boats appear to float in mid-air in photographs. Spend the day swimming, paddleboarding, and exploring deserted beaches. Anchor in the protected waters near the Pipe Creek cuts.

Pipe Creek AnchorageCrystal-clear sandbars and floating-on-air waters

Pipe Creek to Shroud Cay

Continue north to Shroud Cay, another jewel within the Land and Sea Park. A tidal creek system runs through the interior of the cay, creating a natural lazy river that you can explore by dinghy or kayak. At the east end, the creek empties onto a spectacular beach facing the Exuma Sound. Watch for ospreys, herons, and sea turtles in the mangrove-lined waterways. This is a perfect final anchorage before the return north.

Shroud Cay, ECLSPKayaking the tidal creek to the ocean beach

Shroud Cay to Nassau

Weigh anchor early for the 35-mile return passage to Nassau. The morning crossing of the Yellow Banks offers one last stretch of impossibly turquoise water. Arrive back at the marina by early afternoon for charter checkout. If your flight departs the next day, Nassau offers excellent restaurants, the Fish Fry at Arawak Cay, and the historic forts of the colonial waterfront for a final evening in the Bahamas.

Nassau Harbour / Palm Cay MarinaCrossing the turquoise Yellow Banks

Practical Information

Getting There

Lynden Pindling International Airport (NAS) in Nassau is the main gateway, with direct flights from Miami, Fort Lauderdale, New York, Atlanta, Toronto, and London. Nassau is the departure point for most Exuma charters. Alternatively, Staniel Cay has a small airstrip (TYM) with flights from Nassau and Fort Lauderdale for mid-chain charter starts. Water taxis and private ferries also connect Nassau to the northern cays.

Lynden Pindling International Airport (NAS), Nassau

Staniel Cay Airport (TYM)

Great Exuma International Airport (GGT), Georgetown

Marinas

Palm Cay Marina -- Nassau, New Providence
Staniel Cay Yacht Club -- Staniel Cay, Exumas
Compass Cay Marina -- Compass Cay, Exumas

Weather

The Exumas have a subtropical climate with warm temperatures year-round. The dry season from December to May offers the best sailing conditions with east to southeast trade winds at 10-18 knots. Cold fronts (northers) can pass through from December to February, bringing 1-2 days of northwest winds and cooler temperatures before the trades reassert. Hurricane season runs June through November; most charters operate only during the dry season. Water temperature ranges from 24 °C in winter to 29 °C in summer.

Provisioning

Full provisioning should be completed in Nassau before departure, as supplies in the Exumas are limited and expensive. Solomon's and Super Value are the main supermarkets in Nassau. Most charter companies offer provisioning packages. In the cays, the Staniel Cay Yacht Club has a small store with basics, and fresh bread is baked on several islands. Carry extra water and ice, as resupply points are sparse between Nassau and Staniel Cay.